Scaleworld

Over the course of the last several years, major kit manufacturers and aftermarket suppliers have blessed the modeling fraternity with a cornucopia of choices that is literally overwhelming. We now have at least one kit -and frequently several- of a whole list of subjects that we used to think would NEVER be offered in kit form. Same goes for aftermarket components, specialized tools and supplies, etc., ad infinitum. These manufacturers deserve all the accolades we can offer. And yes, I'm including the occasional manufacturer or aftermarket supplier whose offerings would charitably be described as lousy. For the most part, at least they're trying. It beats scratchbuilding, though sometimes not by much.

Unfortunately, some of these same manufacturers have begun packaging their kits in a box design that never should have made it off the drawing board. I'm speaking of the clamshell box. For those of you unfamiliar with the term, take a look at the Revell-Monogram Starfury or the ProModeler SB2C-4 Helldiver kits. What you have is a three sided lid that lifts up and then folds back. The fourth side of the lid forms the hinge between the top and bottom of the box.

So what? Well, consider that there are four basic box designs. There is, of course, the traditional top over bottom design. Simple, logical, reasonably sturdy even when light weight cardstock is used. It protects it's contents in transit and can be easily stacked on shelves with all the rest of your kits til you're ready to tackle it.

Next up are the end flap and end flap/drawer entries. These are exactly what you'd think from their names. The box is a one piece wraparound with flaps at each end that give you access to the kit. End flap boxes, while not as strong as traditional designs, offer a fair amount of protection and can be stacked to a point before they begin deforming.

End flap/drawer designs (Testor is your primary example of this type) is a compromise between end flap and traditional boxes. Essentially an end flap box with a traditional box bottom slid inside, they do just as good a job protecting the kit and can be stacked on your shelf just like traditional boxes. The down side? They can be a little awkward to use.

Then there's the clamshell box. These things will protect the kit parts under ideal conditions, but it's not uncommon for them to show up a little the worse for wear after a trip thru the mail. Also, once you open them, they take a lot of space, they're hard to handle and they run to the flimsy side. Nor do they lend themselves to being stacked...unless you want to stand them on the hinge edge. Even that isn't feasible unless you want to strap a rubber band around them or tape'em shut.

What to do? I'd suggest hanging onto some of those older, sturdy traditional boxes after you've finished the model inside. Then switch the kit parts from that clamshell box to a nice, safe traditional box.

One final thought to those who are thinking that the clamshell box design can't be all that bad, think about a 1/72 B-36 packed in a clamshell box!

CORRECTION! In the first Scaleworld column, I indicated that Chris Loney of E-Z MASKS looked at Fast Frames and said to himself "I can do better than that." NOT TRUE! E-Z MASKS were developed independently and were available in Canada 3 months before Chris ever became aware of Fast Frames.

Suffering from Titanic overload? Was the final straw that TV commercial showing the videocassette box sinking slowly beneath the waves while a voiceover extolls you to get your copy now before they disappear? In spite of all that, do you still like ocean liners? If your answer to all of the above is yes, yes and yes, consider the GLENCOE kit of the S.S. France.

Originally produced some 20-30 years ago by now-defunct and frequently lamented ITC, the GLENCOE repop is very nice indeed. The 1/450 scale results in a rather large box that contains some 126 white and black flash free parts. Instructions take the form of two 8 1/2 x 17 inch sheets, printed on both sides. One feature that will be liked or disliked, depending on whether or not you prefer to build your ships as waterline models, is a one piece 24.5 inch long hull. Those of you who like to drill out portholes will welcome this pupply with open arms. All of the hull's portholes are recessed, making it a snap to drill them all the way thru without risk of your drill bit wandering. And the waterline indicator takes the form of a barely detectable raised line that won't detract from the finished hull.

All in all, this GLENCOE offering -carrying a price tag of $39.98- is a must have for the ocean liner enthusiast. Granted, it'll take some work to bring it up to current detail standards, but it's certainly worth the effort when you consider that the S.S. France (currently sailing as the S.S. Norway) was the most luxurious and -at over 1,000 feet- longest ocean liner ever built.

Many of you, as a result of an ad in FineScale Modeler, have become aware of a new 1/32 resin kit of the Spirit Of St. Louis from WILCO! MODELS. Some have wondered if it actually existed or was just another piece of vaporware. Well, vaporware it ain't. It exists, orders are being filled at a rapid pace and I can't wait for mine to arrive. It'll be reviewed in my November column and if I can build fast enough, there'll be a photo of the finished model.

Science Fiction/Fantasy aficianados probably feel like they struck the mother lode where POLAR LIGHTS is concerned. The company burst on the model kit scene with several rapid fire repops of the old Aurora Monster/Figure kits. This was followed with a very well done original kit of The Jupiter 2 (TV version) that included a complete interior. Not content with what they'd already done, they set the gold standard for figures with a large scale Wolfman (reviewed in last month's SCALEWORLD) and then returned to the Aurora repops with several more offerings.

The two latest to hit the shelves from POLAR LIGHTS are The Lost In Space Cyclops With Chariot and a humerous fantasy kit called Wolfman's Wagon. I haven't even had a chance to crack the shrink wrap on the Cyclops/Chariot kit, but it's a safe bet that it'll be welcomed with open arms. To a scale of 1/32, it's essentially the previously released Cyclops kit with an extra base and boulder in order to elevate him further above the ground, as well as the tracked Space Chariot ground transport. If you spent any time 30 years ago watching Lost In Space, this one's a must.

Holding down second place in this dual release is Wolfman's Wagon. There were six of these things, played for fun and aimed at kids. Funny? Yep! Weird? Yep! Outrageous? Yep, again! But they also served a purpose, which was to give you something where you could throw caution to the wind and just simply have some fun while building them. Colors could be anything you wanted and there was no worry about accuracy. Thirty years later, they still serve the same purpose.

Consider that today we've all become 'serious modelers' with everything it implies. Nothing wrong with it, but sometime it's strangely relaxing to just toss a kit together for the heck of it and not worry about dragging out 47 reference books and 13 decal sheets before you ever open the box.

In contrast, Wolfman's Wagon gives you 53 reference free parts that'll make for a fun modeling session. And if it doesn't get you laughing somewhere along the way, your sense of humor may need adjusting. So what do you wind up with when you're finished? A completely out of scale, squatty hot rod that looks more or less like a chopped Ford Model T. An overblown engine fills the passenger compartment and hotrod exhausts with flames attached extend down the length of the body. Racing slicks are mounted on the rear axle, while little slingshot dragster spoked wheels are on the front. A rather contorted Wolfman fills the engine room, one hand grasping the steering wheel while the other controls the floor shift. His feet are propped in foot rests made from human hands and a couple of human feet form the rear bumper pads! Finally, five rats ride the wagon with him, including one that sits on his shoulder.

A kit like this is pure fun (or a waste of plastic, depending on how serious you are). Personally, I'm glad to see it because it makes a great change of pace. By the way, I should have a photo of the finished kit in next month's SCALEWORLD.

As I've already alluded to, 'serious' modelbuilding requires references. This usually means books and/or magazines...unless you're fortunate enough to be able to crawl over, under, around and thru the actual object of your affection. And to find the publications that contain what you need means becoming very familiar with a lot of catalogs.

One catalog that's an absolute must is the 1998 Fall Books Catalog from NAVAL INSTITUTE PRESS. It runs to 64 pages, looks and reads more like a softcover book than a catalog and -insert drum roll here- is free for the asking. All you have to do is call Customer Service at 1-800-233-8764. So what are you waiting for? Pick up that phone!

Most modelbuilders wind up using an X-ACTO knife with a #11 blade (or a virtually identical generic copy) for their cutting needs. Considering the fact that the little critters tend to disappear the second you put'em down, many of us have several...and can't find any of them! Either they burrow their way under all that workbench clutter or they roll off onto the floor and vanish. That's if we're lucky. More than a few of us have had the misfortune to be the recipient of a knife that has rolled off the bench and dropped point first into a leg...or an even more sensitive area! And after we've quit screaming and cleaning up the blood, we've also said "There's gotta be a better way!". Fortunately, X-ACTO said "There is." Virtually every manufacturer of hobby knives has, at one time or another, tried to find a way to keep the things from rolling. And with varying degrees of success. X-ACTO'S effort takes the form of a relatively fancy design called the X-ACTO X2000. What you have is essentially a conventional hobby knife handle holding a #11 blade. The knife handle is enclosed in a contoured rubber skin that winds up with a shape very similar to an old fashioned fountain pen. Near the butt of the handle, a narrow rectangular strip bulges out from the surface, much the way a fountain pen spring clip does. Lay it down on a sloping surface and it rolls like any other knife...until it encounters that raised strip, which stops it cold. Usually.

While the design works and works well, it ain't perfect. There are circumstances where, if you hit it just right or thump it, it'll start rolling and keep on going. In spite of that, you'll find the X2000 stays where you put it far more readily than most other anti-roll designs that have been tried. Besides the fact that it can only roll so far, the rubber coating has a good feel to it, doesn't slip and allows you a level of control when doing delicate cutting that other knives don't give you. The down side? Compared to other hobby knives, it's expensive, carrying a price tag of $5.95. On the other hand, if it puts an end to extricating knife blades from one of your most private areas, you might consider it one of the biggest bargains around.

I need to take a moment to establish the ground rules regarding any letters or email received by SCALEWORLD. Unless your comments are specifically identified as being off the record, they will be considered public domain and may be used in whole or in part in the SCALEWORLD column. Of course, any comments that I may use will be appropriately credited.

Now that we've taken care of the legalities, I'd like to thank Vaughn Nelson, IPMS/USA #2466 for forwarding the E-Z MASKS URL.

Vaughn says that

"...there is normally an up to date list of what is available. I have also used the car masks on one of MONOGRAM'S race trucks and they worked great!"

Thanks for your help, Vaughn, and for your kind comments about INTERNET MODELER and SCALEWORLD.

There's much more to discuss, but time's flyin' and my deadline's calling.

See you in November.