Revell 1/72 Type VIIC U-Boat By George Peat

The long awaited Revell U-boat is now on the market, a perfect companion for the old Flower class Corvette. If you have the Anatomy of the Ship U-Boat Type VIIc this will help a lot for detailing the model

Now the important part what do you get for your money? The stout box looks to be approximately the same size as that in which their Corvette is supplied. The box art, though stilted, is a quantum improvement over the laughable effort on the Schnellboote box (that kit's one flaw). Inside the box, the hull halves are provided in separate bags with runners already removed. Six further sprues are provided although none of them are over-burdened with parts – this is a simple kit.

Revell may have tried to make the modelmaker's life too easy by creating the handrail around the flak gun in only two parts. This has meant that the parts protrude a long way from the rest of the sprue, which means that they may be prone to damage in transit. It is a small matter though. Not a fault, just something to take account of. There are a couple of other items in the box: a length of black cotton wound round, what appears to be, a plastic Ninja death star; a set of transfers; and a sheet of thin paper with flags and pennants printed on it.

The instructions (typical Revell) are straightforward if read carefully, although there are a couple of points that seems created to catch the unwary. But more of that later. You are provided with options for five different boats, two of which have camouflage patterns. In fact, U552 is represented twice, first early in the war and second as upgraded in the mid-war period with a few modifications, so actually, you are getting six possible finishes.

Most of the differences between the optional finishes are in the conning tower. The breakdown of parts allows for a number of different configurations, although by-and-large the instructions allow for two real types - an early version with the net cutters on the bow and side intakes on the conning tower - or a later type which has top intakes inside the conning tower and an antenna 'bulge' on the port side of the tower. Further early types can be built simply by omitting the spray guard from the top of the tower or changing the cut of some of the parts. This offers the possibility to build vessels from around 1938 up until 1943 when the deck was simplified on new vessels and more and greater 'Wintergarten' flak configurations were built as extensions to the rear of the control tower.

There are a number of areas where the limitations of moulding have led to compromise. This is quite normal and allows the modelmaker to stretch their creativity.

I'll deal with the two hull halves first. Mainly because I can deal with them quickly because they represent a wonderful feat of engineering. The area where it is lacking is in a few missing details on upper and lower surfaces where moulding made detail impossible. This involves re-scribing the access plates on the top surface of the saddle tanks, redoing some of the small, round receptors under the bow and attention to the flooding vents near the stern. Oh, and then there's the small matter of what you want to do about the flooding vents in general. {If you want to build a R/C/ sailing version then you have no choice but to drill them out}

The hull is covered with vents to aid water flow when submerging and surfacing. In depicting these Revell have chosen (wisely) not to have holes going all the way through the moulding, but rather to depict them as deep depressions on the parts. . The exception to this is the set of three vents right at the bow which are unobstructed on the original and you should, therefore, be able to see straight through. One other (final) observation about the hull. You are given the option of having the bow torpedo tubes in an open position. The structure fitted inside the bow to represent this are very crude, to the point of inaccuracy and would need quite a lot of work to make good. I'd avoid this unless you have an awful lot of reference material. [AOS may help]

Anyway, the chief area for attention lies within the conning tower. The kit represents the basic structures tolerably accurately but severely lacking in detail and, in the case of the main periscope standard and UZO stand, somewhat too short. The periscope standard should be just taller than the sides of the bridge, whilst the UZO stand should be even taller, so that a pair of sighting binoculars placed on top could actually see out.

Note also that the forward face of the bridge can be substantially embellished. There is a hand wheel and locking mechanism missing from the top of the hatch and, whilst you are at it, it might be good to add interior detail to the hatch so that you can have it open. The inside face of the bridge is lined with a representation of the wooden strips used to prevent the crew sticking to the metal walls when coated in freezing spray. These are okay, but different vessels had this applied differently, so it is a case of checking references for specific vessels. Now, the vents at the rear of the bridge. There are two versions: an earlier type that vents outwards; and a later type that vents upwards. In my opinion the later type are too wide. That is they protrude too far into the bridge and the vent at the top is, therefore, not narrow enough.

Now, back to the instructions. The first thing of note is that there are some images that are described as 1:1 scale that show you where cuts are to be made in order to create different versions. Unfortunately, those pertaining to the spray guards have been reduced during the printing process. Matching them with the parts can, therefore, be problematic. Another issue is that, in order to be followed in any language, some of the notation is a bit vague. Where different versions are being created it is not always apparent which parts they want you to use.

The guns are very nicely rendered. The only obvious omission from the 8.8cm was the slot on the front face of the mount where the barrel plug is placed when the gun is in use. Curiously, it is shown in the instructions, but not on the model. I put a new one on with a hole in the centre. I also added the cord that connects to the muzzle bung wound around the barrel from 3 amp fuse wire. The 2cm is lacking its elevation buffer and a magazine (if you feel it should have one).

Conclusion

A remarkable kit. Not for the beginner perhaps, but simple enough to put together in around ten hours if you do the sort of improvement regime.