Crown 1/144th SF-37 Viggen By Alex Bernardo

Background

The aircraft is an SF-37 Viggen, which is the photo-recon version where SF stands for "Spanning Foto" in Swedish, meaning "Recce Photo". The aircraft depicted belongs to the 1st squadron of the F21 Wing in Luleå, up in the far north of Sweden, and the call sign for that division is Urban Röd (Urban Red), that's why you have the letter U; the 21st letter of the alphabet (F21 Wing) and the red color is for the 1st squadron (blue for 2nd and yellow for 3rd) in the squadron emblem. The text Akktu Stakki means "Lone Wolf" in saami language. The logo was painted on the vertical stabilizer. Barely visible in 1/144 scale.

Nose art was applied for the Viggen Photocall ceremony on April 6-7, 2005, before being replaced by JAS-39 Gripens. The nose art came off during ceremonial flight.

I was inspired to build this subject, since it’s rare to see splinter camouflaged Viggen with nose art.

Construction

I used the old Crown kit for this project. Basic shape is reasonable and the fact it’s the only kit available in 1/144 scale.

First I opened the jet thrust redirection vents by thinning the inner fuselage areas. Then using the back of a number 11 Xacto blade, started scribing until the vent was open.

Next, I constructed a jet thrust redirection shield. I started out with a 1/144 B-17 engine cowling. I filled the cowling opening edges away until I reached the prop shaft hole. I attached styrene strips to accent the three clam shells of the closed shield. Then painted the shield with Gunze acrylic gun metal.

Detailing the cockpit was the next task. I used a piece of sheet styrene for the floor and added smaller pieces with angled edges for the side instrument panels. Next I made the main instrument panel out sheet styrene. I painted in the instrument gauges and added a piece of photo etched bezel for center console screen. I cut a piece of square styrene rod and used it as part of the gun sight. The instrument panel shroud was a fun task. Cut a piece of paper thin styrene sheet, larger than the area where the shroud should be located to allow for curved surface. Then, trimmed to fit, while retaining a curved surface. Then I glued into place with super glue. I added ejection guide rails and various details to the rear bulkhead. The ejection seat was constructed from various, tiny blocks and strips of styrene. I made a new “Heat-n-Smash” canopy using original canopy as the master. I heated clear styrene over low heat, then smashed over the master. I used Squadron vacuform materials for the canopy. I attached the windscreen with white glue and after drying applied super glue to anchor permanently.

Next, was modifying the nose. I applied strips and chunks of styrene to the nose using super glue. Then I started filing and sanding to the correct shape. I used a clear styrene piece for the forward camera lense. I drilled a shallow hole in the clear piece without going all the way thru. Painted the hole silver and then painted remaining areas black. Then I applied glue to the painted side of the lens, attached to the nose and filed and sanded to match all surfaces. Using a template, I scribed two camera lenses on the bottom of the nose.

I noticed the spine was missing the distinctive hump. I glued thin layers of styrene and then filed and sanded until all edges are a smooth match. I repeated the process because I underestimated the height of the hump.

I test fitted the canards and noticed the deflection angle was too steep in this scale. I filled in the insert holes with styrene and super glue and created a new insert hole and clipped the canard tabs until there was narrow rod. The insert rod allows me to reduce the deflection angle.

Next, I extended the outer wing leading edges with styrene strips and used styrene rods for leading edge probes. Also added outer hard points.

The kit wheels looked too plain and I replaced them with DML 1/144 F/A-18 wheels. The nose wheels where perfect but the main wheels were too thick. I reduced the thickness with a file and re-scribed backside detail and sanded tire areas smooth. I also added scissors to all landing gear using styrene and electronic wire.

All raised panel lines were replaced with scribed panel lines. I used Duplo tape as a guide for the back edge of a number 11 Xacto blade.

Painting and Decals

I found an old Fine Scale article detailing how to accomplish the dreaded splinter camouflage. I reduced the article’s camouflage diagram to 1/144 scale and used it as guide for masking each color. There are four upper surface colors. I sprayed the first color, then applied masking. I repeated this process for the other colors. The key is restraining myself from applying a thick coat of paint, which will cause thick edges after removing masking tape. I used the following paints:

As for the markings, they were custom made Alps decals produced by my good friend Mark Tutton. If anyone is interested, Mark can reproduce the decals any scale.