F.A.Q.: Frequently Asked Questions about techniques used for painting cars and motorcycles

By Juan Layos and Juan de Dios Catena
Andrea Press ã2008
ISBN 978-84-96658-08-0
160 pages, softbound
Available from Casemate Publishing
$49.95

Reviewed by Jacob Russell

I love to read about model building, and when Chris Banyai-Riepl offered me this book for review I leaped at the opportunity. I am searching for new techniques, and I found many in this new book from Andrea Press (www.andrea-miniatures.com).

The book has 160 pages, which are divided into twenty-eight chapters. The first twenty-six chapters are devoted to tools and techniques, and the final two are devoted to galleries of the author’s models.

The authors of this book took a refreshing approach to the idea of recommending specific brands of paints and tools-they don’t recommend any, which they discuss in the book’s introduction:

“The express mention of particular manufacturers or brands has been intentionally avoided and, by no means do we suggest that the ones used here are the are the best or, indeed, the most suitable. Each modeler must find his/her own way to feel comfortable with the result through the use of their own favorite products. We have set out to show just one among many possibilities. Take it as a point of departure.” I couldn’t have put it any better myself!

In the course of explaining their modeling philosophies, Messrs. Layos and de Dios Catena used six different models to display their approach-a rally car, a Le Mans racer, two GT Championship cars (one each in 1/24th and 1/43rd scales), a Grand Prix motorcycle, and a Formula One racer. The use of the same six models to display various techniques at different phases of model construction provides a welcome continuity.

Each of the chapters contains some very useful information, but I was especially interested in the chapter on Engine Detailing (Chapter 25). The authors share their techniques of undercoating the engine block and transmission with different paints so that the metallic paints applied over these base coats have strong contrast and closely resemble dissimilar metals. The use of both drybrushing and washes is discussed and this is the first time that I can recall these techniques applied to car models; I normally associate them with aircraft and armor.

One of the best things about this book is the tips passed along by the authors. Here are some examples:

• Marking flaws on model parts with a felt tip pen or marker for later correction (pg. 24)

• The use of a lighter to clear hollow dispensers of glue containers (pg.29)

• The use of a hair dryer to speed up the drying of decals (pg. 52)

• Storing decals with bags of silica gel to keep them moisture free (pg. 57)

• Correcting flaws in clear coats (pgs. 68-69)

• Undercoat metallic wheels with gloss black to enhance color, shape, and tone (pg. 90)

• Scratchbuilding seatbelts (pg.109)

My quibbles with the book are minor, and some or them may be due to the book’s translation from Spanish to English. For example, the authors refer to the use of “Universal Solvent”, which is used in the book not only to glue together parts, but also to thin Gunze’s Mr. Surfacer 500 liquid putty. I was not familiar with the term Universal Solvent so I asked a Spanish-speaking friend, who thought the authors referred to lacquer thinner. I will certainly not hold the authors responsible for MY ignorance on this topic, it merely illustrates the pitfalls of translation from one language to another.

I was surprised that the use of Johnson’s Klear (Future Floor Wax in the United States) was never discussed, especially given the fact that they state that clear parts cannot be glued with super glue. This is incorrect: clear parts can be glued with super glue, provided that the clear parts are first dipped in Future to protect them from the glue’s fumes. I was also surprised to see that the authors recommended spraying one’s workspace with an atomizer or mister filled with water, prior to painting with an airbrush or spray gun, to prevent dust landing on one’s paint, rather than recommending the purchase or construction of a spray booth. Finally I was disappointed that the two Gallery chapters fail to mention the manufacturer and scale of the models, or which of the two authors built them. Inquiring minds want to know this type of information!

I really enjoyed this book, and the best proof of this is the list I wrote while reading it, of tools to purchase, and techniques to try. I highly recommend this book to car modelers of all skill levels. I am confident that anyone with an open mind and the desire to improve their models will enjoy this book. Buy it-you’ll be glad you did!